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Tubéreuse by Mona di Orio
A sublimely different tuberose scent. I’ve had an odd relationship with the Les Nombres d’Or collection. All are excellently composed. Cuir for instance takes a protein-enriched piece of old leather and combines it with quinine. Vanille is a study of Vanilla dismissing the usually attachments. Oud – a novel attempt:…
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La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens
La Fille de Berlin. A rose of absolute substance. A vein girl with a voracious gaze. La Fille de Berlin is the rose of dreams. A fantasy performed in a crystal clear reality. La Fille de Berlin gets what she wants. But, what does she want? She is a rose…
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Tacit by Aesop
Tacit Adjective Understood or implied without being stated. I like Tacit. It alludes at a sensible freshness. Aesop’s mantra lies in intelligence – a smart, trendy brand without trying too hard. They don’t set themselves dreams: they create objectives. They make science seem like romantic artistry, and create an attainable…
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Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat by Guerlain
Luxury on Jean-Paul Guerlain’s account is something pretty and discreet: “[Luxury] must not be brash”. To embody this, I use this creation to prove his point. Coming from the master of the abstract symphony, Jacques Guerlain, Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat is a simple cologne that may have been Jacques’…
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Sienne L’Hiver by Eau d’Italie
Sienne L’Hiver (Sienne Winter) is true olfactory portraiture; a landscape artwork captured in scent. It is an atmospheric fragrance as a realism style teeters between the natural and the abstract. A paleness with depth, Sienne L’Hiver is a moment in history suspended in time. It is a beautiful, near transcendental scent with a…
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Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre D’Orange
Do not expect a tobacco fragrance. Expect a cigarette scent. Where’s the magic in Etat’s Jasmin et Cigarette? For me, it’s the juxtaposition. Elegant, white, and green smelling indolic jasmine surrounded with a firm base of spice and warmth. It’s a classic floral oriental recipe: Heady floral top notes atop…
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31 Rue Cambon by Chanel
In reflection, treating this blog as an academic exercise became a secondary function very quickly. Instead, it became a medium to express improvement. One of the first reviews on this blog was of 31 Rue Cambon, and I have no shame in stating that when reading it, I now vehemently…
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An Argument for Olfactory Art
We have for a long time now treated the sense of smell as a commercial exercise. It has become the most neglected and under-appreciated sense in our repertoire. Almost everyone nowadays agrees with the notion that music, regardless of type, is an ‘art’, as well as visual art, dance and…
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Sauvage by Dior
This post was written pre-release. I have a mantra: don’t trash, but fairly critique instead. As the information trickles [and as I type this, the information is still trickling] for Dior’s latest masculine, I am left sorely disappointed. Before I got my nose on this scent, I was positively charged…
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Frida by En Voyage
Shelley Waddington is a highly respected independent perfumer based in the United States. A real force to be reckoned with, she is highly regarded and well known in the fragrance world. With a constant knack for fine-tuning, she challenges herself to create new scents with large scope. Shelley shares a great…
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Olfactics 