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Mitsouko by Guerlain
It is difficult to discuss chypre perfumes and not mention contrast and tension, and yet the idea of contrast applies in many different ways for Mitsouko. On one hand, Mitsouko has an internal contrast of its notes and its whole structure – the trio of bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss makes the olfactory…
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Monthly Musings: Signature, October 2016
In my mind, it is ultimately very important to have favourites in perfumery because it puts principle into practice. The more I delve into my personal tastes as both a reviewer and a consumer, the increasingly static my tastes become. The wardrobe feature on Fragrantica forces some sort of contemplation,…
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On Rose: The Soliflore – Sa Majesté la Rose by Serge Lutens
I have a deep respect for the soliflore, it’s more complex than it seems. From a constructed perspective, the soliflore requires careful and considered bolstering; a harmonious balance between simplicity and complexity. A fragrance with too many movements in its evolution loses its soliflore quality, transforming the singularly emphasised facet by…
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DSH Perfumes
DSH Perfumes captures a familiar realm in perfumery with enough variance within the internal structure of each fragrance in that it becomes reinvention. These structures rely on old and historically tested accords, yet what lies atop of these underpinnings come across as fresh and brilliant, with enough creative juiciness to make…
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La Tulipe by Byredo
Byredo’s concept as a brand never stuck with me as anything particularly noteworthy. The image of the brand is easy to disregard, with the scent itself becoming my focal problem. There are enough blah scents on the market, and for a niche output to offer unexceptional creations with artsy names…
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Au Coeur du Désert by Tauer Perfumes
Flankers can be constructed in a number of different ways. The general principle (in my view) is as follows: take what made the original popular, reduce it to its fundamental accord(s), add something new and enhancing. Hermès, for instance, spells it out clearly: Bel Ami became Bel Ami Vetiver, Amazone became…
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Monthly Musings: A Grand Narrative? September 2016
My recent vetiver write up explored an approach to the vetiver note, discussing it in context of how it is treated and how Ropion attempts to break away from that. Using Extraordinaire as a springboard for this technical discussion, I linked the application and concept of vetiver to a grander…
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Unexpected Iris: Paprika Brasil by Hermès
In my adventures of the note, a majority of iris and orris notes in perfumery appear on the cooler end of the olfactory thermometer. For instance, Iris Silver Mist is a glacial work, where cool earth and sheets of metal move around a tightly rooted and prominent iris. Infusion d’Iris…
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In Defence of Traditionalism: No. 5 L’Eau by Chanel
Reading the preamble of Bois de Jasmin’s No. 5 L’Eau review highlights an approach to fragrance and fragrant criticism that differs strongly from mine. Being a traditionalist is not a negative, nor does it necessarily imply rigidity. Being a traditionalist in this exercise refers to the ability to recognise archetypes and their…
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Infusion d’Iris EdP by Prada
In creating a scent for a big fashion behemoth like Prada, it is appropriate that the fragrance maintains a coherent link with the image of the house, for the simple reason that the average consumer likes to attach themselves with the narratives and biographies projected by these entities. It is…
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Olfactics 