Category: Chanel
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Fragments (July 2021): Frederic Malle, Chanel, L’Occitane, Robert Piguet, Heeley
Une Rose by Frederic Malle (2003) ★★★★★There is a moment in Une Rose where it is like a smudge – like rubbing an unctuous paste of rose between the thumb and forefinger. It is decadent and rich, a sumptuous stain of fatal red that swirls into vertiginous darkness. Une Rose…
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The Lion in the Room: Le Lion by Chanel (2020)
The elephant lion in the room: Le Lion’s connection to Shalimar. As long as Shalimar (Guerlain, 1925) exists, and continues to be produced, there will be components of Le Lion that feel superfluous. But if I take this strict line of thought and extend it to its conclusion, many perfumes…
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Patterns of Thought (at First Sniff) – May 2020
Here I discuss three fragrances that I’ve worn during the month, letting my thoughts about them brew in the unconscious, and then emerge spontaneously. Therefore, the entirety of this post is written in one sitting: from conception to publication.
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Call to Arms: The Chanel Problem (In Reference to Gabrielle by Chanel)
Some food for thought. I call this the Chanel problem. They’ve done this to themselves. The initial reaction to Gabrielle hasn’t been overly enthusiastic, to say the least. In fact, it has called for a retreat into perspective. What perspective? The general consensus has been drawn: “It’s perfectly fine for…
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On Rose: Six Roses to Know
Taste is not static! Would you believe that I once found rose fragrances unappealing? I can’t either. Rose is now one of my most highly worn notes, and I am captured by its ability of metamorphosis between compositions. Here are six rose fragrances (of the many other roses) that I frequent…
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A Treatise on (Soft) Orientals: Chinoiserie – From Opium to Coco
A blog reader put me to task for not connecting Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and the idea of spice in my most recent treatise on spices. How could I be so foolish? Until recently, Soft(er) Orientals have always seemed like a half-baked idea to me. Yet an inclination for extremity and…
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Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel
The seasoned, well-considered reviewer in my mind will often find themselves torn against multiple perspectives when analysing a scent. This is an old and often repeated theme found on this blog, as the subjective/objective perspectives are merged together to the best of my critical abilities. Despite attempts for the objective to outweigh…
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In Defence of Traditionalism: No. 5 L’Eau by Chanel
Reading the preamble of Bois de Jasmin’s No. 5 L’Eau review highlights an approach to fragrance and fragrant criticism that differs strongly from mine. Being a traditionalist is not a negative, nor does it necessarily imply rigidity. Being a traditionalist in this exercise refers to the ability to recognise archetypes and their…
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No. 18 by Chanel
Chanel’s No. 18 takes a glance into the past; from modern to yesteryear. Acting in retrospect is a very Chanel thing to do. To take something modern, and project it in a unique realm worthy of veneration. This is a modern vintage. A study of the degrees of animalics in…
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Eau de Cologne by Chanel
On Olfactics, the Eau de Cologne needs no introduction. I am tantalised by its ephemerality. I am left chasing and chasing – applying minutes apart for lively refreshment and cooling. One questions why you’d persist with such a short-lived wonder, and it certainly took time for me to develop an…
Olfactics 