Andy Tauer makes perfume magical. He makes it a wonderful exercise.
On smelling and wearing Rose Flash, I am instantly transported to an image of Mr. Tauer in a purple frock and an eccentric bowtie. Andy Tauer, of course, is an indie perfumer, but he stands alone as an individual adding spark into his creations. He is the
candyman, no, the perfume man. Do you remember the candy store scene in Willy Wonka? In this scene there is an air of anticipation from the masses for Wonka’s new chocolate – a scrumdiddlyumptious bar. Perhaps Tauer doesn’t merely add rose or resins to his creations, but a touch of sunrise, happiness, and a sprinkling of dew in the form of passion, love, and humility.
Of course, this is just romantic language, but Andy Tauer’s Rose Flash is presented in a manner that promotes this magical ideal very simply. Firstly no notes supplied, just rose. This allows the imagination to wander and the creative juices of the wearer to flow. The edge? This is something Andy Tauer would wear – and this ensures both passion and quality of scent. The result? A unique rose, incredibly and largely multifaceted in a way seldom seen.
© 2015 Liam Sardea
So, what is then presented when wearing Rose Flash? One immediately notices its thick viscosity and the daring and deep orange colour as it is applied on the skin. I own the 10ml rollerball format, and there is something marvellously ceremonial and intimate perfume wise when applying a thick (20%) parfum concentrated scent onto regions of the skin. The rose is brazenly solid and secure yet somehow still humble. Its projection is a given, its complexity unmistakable. It is a beautiful red rose so immaculately edible it has been most likely dipped in golden honey. Thus, its juicy and nectarous qualities is one facet on display during initial application. To then bump the flounce of the rose up, a wealth of citruses lift the fragrance like lemon to strawberries.
To avoid a stump when analysing Rose Flash, I resorted to drawing upon broader things. Juicy Fruit Rose was the first thought in my head as a delicious jammy accord reveals itself to me. Raspberry, honey, lavender, and patchouli create this compote impression, smoked with benzoin, incense, and amber accords. A hint of green peaks through slightly above the jammy marmalade compote notes with a slight complimentary saltiness. The sweet is controlled, the richness cut with spice (incl. cinnamon) before it becomes too much.
Andy turns rose up a notch as it lives on the warm skin of its wearer; it blooms. The overdosing of rose absolute is apparent, but the rich creamy woods impression is equally impressive. The greenery at this fragrance’s heart is hushed in an elegant, understated manner – losing minimalism and realism for a perfected abstract rose dream. I think the best thing about this dream is that it is never interrupted or overtly dramatic, but a solid sequence, or a series of sturdy sequences presenting an undisturbed meditation of this gorgeous flower.
The focus is clear in this fragrance. Make the perfect rose, and make it personal – perhaps an homage to his fans or a tribute to the complexity of the flower. Tauer hits home too, pulling back into his roots as the citruses and the resinous inflections not only sweeten the rose, but also give us a familiar tauerade accord, like fluorescent lights outlining this rose.
Andy never forgets to stay humble. I love that. Thank you, and keep doing what you’re doing.
Alternatives: Hippie Rose by Heeley; Rose Ikebana By Hermes; and Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer.
The rose works in tandem with everything else! Don’t grapple against nature – work with it! All of rose’s complexities are on display here.
Subjective rating : 3.5/5
Objective rating: 4/5