Category: Heeley Paris
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Fragments (July 2021): Frederic Malle, Chanel, L’Occitane, Robert Piguet, Heeley
Une Rose by Frederic Malle (2003) ★★★★★There is a moment in Une Rose where it is like a smudge – like rubbing an unctuous paste of rose between the thumb and forefinger. It is decadent and rich, a sumptuous stain of fatal red that swirls into vertiginous darkness. Une Rose…
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Phoenicia by Heeley
Phoenicia smells like an old fragrance situated in an old place, drawing its inspiration from ancient cues and ingredients. It evokes exactly what you’d expect when an ancient coastal Levantine civilisation is involved. Phoenicia involves a seemingly total absence of florality and citrus, instead harnessing a new effect of freshness in an unorthodox…
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Plushness and The Synthetic Construction: Cuir Velours by Naomi Goodsir, Cuir Pleine Fleur by Heeley, and Cuir d’Ange by Hermes.
In Cuir Velours, a scent is constructed in a manner of sculpture. It demonstrates a process: from material, construction through manipulation, and then finally, a completed ready-to-sell perfume. Cuir Velours bothers me more than it should. For instance, it’s an easy perfume. It takes a synthetic material chunk and carves it down…
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Esprit du Tigre by Heeley
An elegant medicinal experience; Esprit du Tigre flips the spicy paradigm on its head. Esprit du Tigre is a bewitching fragrance and is near stupefying. As an intellectual and fragrant study, Esprit du Tigre is an inspection of stylistic effects in perfume; an observable and public reverie regarding how an…
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Cardinal by Heeley
Heeley’s Cardinal swings between two very distinct poles. The subject of the fragrance is indeed incense, and yet in this instance it flashes back and fourth from two distinctly different manners of treating the material. From an ephemeral dreamlike work resembling the substantial lightness of Duchaufour’s excellent Timbuktu, then to a…
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Volubilis by Bruno Acampora & Menthe Fraiche by Heeley Paris
In Jean-Claude Ellena’s book “The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur”, readers delve into the thoughts of Jean-Claude for a year. Jean-Claude writes like a French Yoda; and his approach to perfumery and life is philosophical. With great benevolence and a headstrong tone Jean-Claude…
Olfactics 